I have to make a comment about brushing sauces on plates. It really isn’t anything new, it’s been done before, but definitely not to the extent we use it today. This past week our students, getting ready for their final practical exams, had free reign to plate their own dishes. Our criteria was to see all the components of the dishes executed with technical aplomb – the right consistency, doneness, temperature, and flavour. However, nearly every sauce on their plates were brushed, for the sake of brushing, for this is the trend at the moment. Unfortunately I had to put an end to their creative stroke, of course with good reasons.
Personally, I don’t like the paint stroke. I love a good sauce, and most of the time I find I don’t have enough on my plate. With paint strokes, I really don’t have enough, and by the time it gets to me it’s always cold. So it may look cool to some, but it doesn’t function well. Besides, a sauce is supposed to enhance the dish, not make it. Give it to me well made, with a sexy sheen, well balanced, enough of it, and hot.
I like this concept of dining in the dark because it focuses the dining experience on flavours, no visual appeal. I like to think I’m at the point in my life where I don’t judge the book by its cover. In fact, two of my top ten dishes in the world look like hell – split, fried blood sausage from Burgos, Spain, and a chicken-barley porridge from Turkey.
Everything has its place. Foams, strokes, sous vide. But everywhere I look these days, it seems these techniques is the only place. Let’s give it a year or two. I remember those cool coulis ‘80’s, and splattered chocolate ‘90’s. I like Dr. McCoys’s line: “Damn it Jim, I’m a cook, not a painter!”
Tony Minichiello, Cook (brushing egg wash only) Instructor