Many chefs, like Mario Batale, have declared war on over-cooked pasta.  He’s quite emphatic about how badly (North) Americans – or non-Italians, for that matter – cook pasta.  He taught many the importance of pasta cooked al dente, to the tooth, with just enough resistance in each bite so the pasta becomes a mouth experience and not baby food. 

So, we now understand the term al dente, and just by saying it in a sentence one sounds like they know what they’re talking about, at least when it comes to pasta.  But here’s a case of falling in love with a wise sounding cooking term and not knowing how and where to use it.  I’ve noticed many chefs and cookbooks use the term al dente to describe cooking vegetables, accusing the average home cook of over-cooking their vegetables (an accusation I have, with regret, made about my grandma’s chard and cardoons).  Cooking vegetables al dente sounds right and wise, but ever since I thought was the right way I’ve experienced under-cooked vegetables everywhere I eat.  Within the spectrum of raw and over-cooked vegetables, perfectly cooked vegetables would lie in the middle;  al dente cooked vegetables would lie somewhere between perfect and raw. A carrot, green bean, or asparagus cooked further than al dente, what the French call a point, or when the bite is just right, without the teeth having to play the major role but the involving more of the tongue and mouth in the experience, the food actually has more flavour. This applies even more so when cooking greens such as chard, kale, rapini, etc.  I always accused my grandmother of over-cooking her greens, hers looked more grey than mine cooked al dente, but hers were much more delicious.

I remember when Chardonnay wine was the most popular wine to drink, and then quickly lost favour, just like Merlot.  Both are beautiful words, perhaps too beautiful, and we connected the wine to the word itself, and with over-use they were reduced to popular jargon.  I think we are much too excited still by the word al dente, convinced its sense of correctness applies to everything.  I don’t think my grandmother, being of Italian origin and only able to speak Italian, even knew what the word meant.  But she did cook her dry pasta al dente, her vegetables nice and tender, her ravioli like pillows, and her cooking greens with the necessary time, even to the point of sacrificing some of the chlorophyll.  But I’ve never to this day had a professional chef cook kale and chard to taste like hers – except for Chef Ian, a farmer at heart, who once cooked me chard and beet tops to a nona’s standard. 

Sometimes as a professional chef we think we know something the average cook does not know, and sometimes that information is not as accurate as we think.  Even the basics, I guess, must be constantly questioned.

Tony Minichiello

Culinary Instructor

We have our students do topic presentations, and this serves two purposes.  First, students must realize they will always be researching, always learning about their field outside of the kitchen.  Second, they must learn how to communicate their knowledge, teach it to others.  In other words, cooks have more on their table than just ingredients to deal with.  Food opens up many areas of discussion other than just techniques.

Last week we had two students tackle big, evocative topics with the whole range of socio-ethical-political implications.  One tackled organics vs gmo, the other farm fishing.  Both students were very articulate, passionate to say the least about their topic, but wise enough to raise tough questions for discussion.  Food should raise questions, and very serious ones at that.  One theme that resonated in discussing those two topics is the questions of food politics.  As one of them put it, by default a cook/chef is a politician by the mere ingredients he/she decides to use.  By default, then, a cook/chef is a nutritionist by how he/she decides to use them for human consumption.  If we are what we eat, we are what we cook. 

Chefs that practice responsible food choices (be it local, organic, sustainable, ocean wise, etc.) are making political statements.  Chefs such as John Bishop and Robert Clark are, by passionately getting their message out their, political activists.

Some may debate whether culinary students/cooks/chefs should involve themselves in the politics of food – or simply cook and leave it at that.  Well, I wouldn’t trust the politics of food left to politicians – look where that’s gotten us.  Open debate, dialogue, and most importantly, asking ourselves very tough questions is vital.  And by tough, I mean tough, the ones that raise an eyebrow, the one that rocks the boat.  Let’s make sure the politics of food is debated by everyone and not just the few.

Tony Minichiello

Chef Instructor, NWCAV

Our very own French Chef extraordinaire, Chef Christophe, is delighted to present two 2-day classes on French Bistro Classics.  Cook with some of your favourite ingredients, such as lobster, truffles, lamb & quail.

The first set will run Wednesday evenings February 4 & 11 and the second will be on February 18 & 25.  Join us for two classes or register for all four with a discount and free NWCAV apron.  Classes include printed recipes, expert instruction, wine pairing, and of course hands-on cooking.  This is the perfect class to do with your partner or friend as you explore the intricacies of French Bistro cuisine.

French Bistro Classics #2 will feature:

Bouillabaise w/ Rouille & Ficelle Bread
Rack of Lamb Provencal w/ Roasted Garlic Flan & Ratatouille
Crepe Suzette w/ Grand Marnier

Souffle w/ Cantal Cheese
Entrecote Bordelaise w/ Pomme Pont Neuf & Pear-Watercress salad
Tart aux Pommes w/ House-made Vanilla Ice Cream

Cost: $245 + GST.  Get a discount by booking yourself for all four classes and receive 1 free NWCAV logo apron or book this with a friend for $470 + GST.

Time: Wednesday February 18 & 25, 2009.  6:15 – 9:45 pm  STILL SPACE AVAILABLE!

Register: Call 604.876.7653.  Payment is due upon reigstration, and can be made with VISA or MasterCard over the phone or in person at 2725 Main Street, Vancouver BC.

Please Bring: Chef’s knife, paring knife, pastry/bench scraper, 2 tea towels, closed-toe/flat heeled shoes, apron, elastic for long hair.

What chefs and culinary students expect from culinary schools do not often match.  The chef, whose mandate is to execute a creative menu efficiently and profitably, expects the culinary school’s fundamentals to align itself with the needs of the industry, namely speed, efficiency, organization, teamwork, and personal sacrifice.  The student, who enters this field pursuing a passion, expects the culinary education to align itself with the needs of the student, namely creativity, imagination, outside-of –the-box thinking, and personal satisfaction. 

Education must always be on the side of the student.  Its role should be to empower students to think, to unlock their talents, to transform their passion and will into essential skills.  Skill is what the industry wants (and pays for);  skill is what the student needs (and pays for).  Education must also be firm and realistic to best prepare the student for later success.  This means education must take into account the industry’s “reality”, or ways of doing business, which often far from the ideal, much like everything else. 

The problem with any education in any field has always been the transition into that “real” world which is less than perfect, often micro-managed to sustain bottom-line economics, and thus often treats people like numbers, cost percentages, rather than valuable talent worthy of nurturing.  Luckily, in the culinary world, talent is prized and , more often than not, nurtured.  The culinary world needs talented, skilled people to put good (not just any) food on the plate, whether in good or tough economic times.  In the end, skills supply everyone with what they need.  The key will always be awareness.  Students need to be aware to take ownership of their skill development; industry needs to develop strategies and programs to help hone skills at entry level without this “sink or swim” attitude; and schools need to be more aggressive, imaginative, and realistic in teaching the essential skills.  In other words, everyone must take the highest road.

Tony Minichiello

Culinary Instructor